Día de Muertos, or Day of the Dead, is still alive-and-well. In my house, even though we share none of the cultural background, we have built our own tradition in acknowledgment of it. We’ve modified it, not out of disrespect, but on the contrary to pay tribute to loved ones, honoring their spirit, and that of the holiday.
In a previous year, I wrote about the holiday and its history and how it’s traditionally, and presently, celebrated. To steal from that blog:
“There is a practicality to the activities taking place in cemeteries
where loved ones are buried. Participants clean the tombs or gravestones,
leaving them looking as fresh as the flora used to adorn them.
Amidst the music, tequila and mescal, it is a party with purpose.”
A party needs food, and there is no shortage of that in Mexico on this special day (or in Spain and Portugal where a similar holiday is recognized). I figured I would post this blog early enough to entice people to experiment with something new – just in time for the event, which this year runs from October 31 – November 2.
Typical Day of the Dead (Día de Muertos) Offering of Food
Customarily, activities, food and drink that the departed ones once enjoyed are a priority. You may have no clue what your loved one might like from this list (we always celebrate with activity), but you might find a new treat that you can pass along to the “other side.”
Calaveras de azucar (sugar skulls)
Perhaps the semi-edible product most associated with Day of the Dead is the sugar skull; so iconic that most people realize it has ‘something to do with Spanish beliefs.’ Related, La Calavera Catrinas are the art work of dolls, portraits, puppets, skulls or face-painting that accompany the holiday tradition and demonstrate the comfort with which Latinx accept (and honor) death.
The sugar skulls are often incredibly elaborate, sometimes even with the name of a loved one engraved upon them, and used more often as altar-offerings than palatable food stuff. I must admit the few I have tried have not been terrific (fool me once ….. fool me twice). I remember one barely edible, another on the verge of tasty, but not there. I have learned that sugar skulls are meant more for decoration than eating. Frankly, I wouldn’t waste my time trying to make my own (to eat or not). Still, you may be more willing than I am. See directions here.
Tamales
Luckily, there is at least one traditional feast item that Anglo-Americans are comfortable with and consume regularly. Tamales are truly a ‘labor of love’ meaning labor, and time intensive. Hence the reason for tamale parties or family get-togethers to prepare and assemble them.
Savory and sweet tamales are part of the fare, and that may be where American palates become challenged. We know typical fillings that are readily available with peppers and meat (especially pork, although lamb is common), vegetable (for vegans) or bean and cheese (for vegetarian or pescatarians like me). Not as typical in our part of the hemisphere are the sweet tamales in which the other fillings are combined with brown sugar, spices (like cinnamon and anise), raisins and nuts (like glorious pine nuts) and perhaps served with avocado or fresh pico de gallo salsa (great on both varieties).
In my town there is a lovely woman who sells them out of her car. Yes, probably illegal, yes, risky, but she rarely returns home without selling her lot. Tamales may not be ‘experimental’ but sill a luxurious treat when hand-made.
Mole
Ok, so I buy my mole sauce in a jar. It’s another one of those long, complex recipes taking a significant amount of time. Like most shared-culture dishes, there are numerous variations, from region to region, or one family to next.
I should probably buy a better product, as it lasts a long time in our house. I use Rogelio Bueno, a common brand. Trader Joes’ used to have one I liked (who knows if it’s a product of theirs to survive). The one ingredient that is always part of mole is chocolate. To this add red pepper, sesame or pumpkin seeds, dried chilies, onions, garlic, nuts, kitchen sink. (Were you paying attention?)
The ethnic traditions generally find mole served over meat or chicken dishes – another reason it lasts so long for me. Still, occasionally, I use it over a rice bowl with mixed vegetables, or a vegetable/fish/or shrimp cake. I personally wouldn’t use it on at a holiday meal, but I might have a different story if I ever prepared meat. [There are many recipes online; too many for me to choose only one, especially when I am shamefully planning to stick to the jar.]
Pozole (a kind of Stew)
The basic ingredients here are hominy and some type of meat (usually pork) combined with unsurprising spices, including: chili peppers (red or green), garlic and cumin. Pozole is basically a holder for garnishes. For special events many toppings are offered: radishes, cabbage, avocado, limes, red onion, and cilantro. (Americans rarely use hominy, but it’s a versatile and inexpensive base that begs for experimentation.)
Semillas de Calabaza Confitados (Candied pumpkin seeds)
Here’s one easy enough for me, as well as for any kids in your life; plus it’s an ummm-ummm snack. They aren’t uncommon for a Day of the Dead treat or a family altar offering. Even when making your own, you can start with store-bought seeds. Especially at this time of year, you can also utilize left-overs from your carved pumpkin (washed and dried completely beforehand – maybe even for a couple days). I’ll give you a recipe for this one. It’s THAT easy.
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- Preheat oven to 300 ◦ F
- In a bowl, combine 1 cup raw pumpkin seeds (in shell), ½ cup brown sugar (or maple syrup), ¾ teaspoon cinnamon and ¼ teaspoon salt
- Then add and mix 2 Tablespoons of melted butter (or coconut oil). Coat evenly
- Spread thinly on a baking sheet with parchment paper
- Bake 40-45 minutes (test to see if crunchy and browned)
- Rest and dry on sheet until cooled; store in airtight container
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Special Dia de Muertos Desserts
Sopaipillas (a fried dough finger dessert)
Frank & Lupe’s, a beloved Mexican restaurant in Old Town Scottsdale, AZ excelled at these, although you often needed extra napkins and a splash from the water glass. [Sticky.] It’s a bit hard to make these at home only because of the ‘deep frying’ and oil needed to prepare them if done traditionally. Word has it, Sopaipillas may have originated in New Mexico, but after several centuries, it’s hard to say for sure. (There are numerous different names for this same dish all over the Americas.) This fried dough, chewy-bread-like dessert is served with various toppings: honey, maple syrup, cinnamon or chocolate sauce. (Go for the chocolate sauce if offered.)
Calabaza (Candied Pumpkin)
This has pre-Hispanic Mayan roots, but won’t seem that odd or unusual to Anglo-Americans as it’s quite similar to candied yams. Notice, however, Calabaza is under desserts, whereas the yam dish is definitely on the dinner plate. Calabaza uses chunks of pumpkin prepared in brown sugar (or piloncillo sugar syrup) and often orange peel (which I highly recommend).
Pan de Muertos
Left to the last in my category of things you chew, these are never last nor forgotten in this celebration, but instead most common during Day of the Dead times. It somewhat reminds me of Easter when I was a kid and Hot-Cross buns were a regular item.
The little round bread loafs are flavored with anise, sometimes coated in 
sesame seed or colored icing, and then decorated on top with edible bone-shaped ornamentations, similar to crosses on hot-cross buns. (In Spain they are known as “saints’ bones.” Oooooh, tasty name.) Having Pan de Muertos with one of the warm drinks below is standard fare for this holiday. See one recipe here.
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Special Drinks for Day of the Dead Celebrations
Tequila and Mescal
Both of these alcoholic drinks are made from agave, and are a staple in many areas – during Day of the Dead or any other day of the year. Enough said.
Atole
Atole is a corn flour beverage with roots dating back to the Aztecs. It can be made from scratch with masa harina (corn flour), milk and spices, but it may be an acquired taste for you.
I have gotten a very cheap (read that as dirt cheap) mix at the store. It doesn’t contain the kind of ingredients you would see in a ‘from-scratch’ recipe. Thus, we assume probably not the best quality, although it is marketed as being enriched with vitamins. It was worth the try.
My review?
I doubt that many people would spit this out; basically it’s tasty. It may be a bit too sugary (which is my opinion), but if so, you can half the sugar source. If made fully with milk, and less than the directions say, you will end up with a kind of drinkable pudding. Not bad, but not exactly what I think of as a drink. You can also cut the milk and add water, or use coconut or almond milk in place of actual dairy. I have tried the coconut flavor and chocolate (both nice). Under Mexican Hot chocolate you will see one more tip for the Atole.
Champurrado
Basically this is Atole with chocolate added. For some, chocolate improves anything.
Mexican Hot Chocolate
This is a total favorite in my house since first visiting a holiday street fare in Santa Fe. (I won’t mention the Aztec chocolate drinks and other products sampled at the Kakawa Chocolate House, also in Santa Fe.) Mexican hot chocolate can contain cayenne pepper or chili peppers, which I really like. Sometimes we purchase Abuelita Authentic Mexican Hot Chocolate Drink, but it really isn’t very good for you (made with vegetable oil) and it isn’t the secret to making a good cup. (Of course, I am not coming close to imitating the quality of a chocolate sipping shop like Kakawa.) Still at home, you can make your own beverage starting with boiling 1 cup of water with baking cocoa (1/4 cup) and brown sugar (2 Tbsp), before adding 3 cups of milk and simmering slowly for a few minutes with the requisite spices. Those necessary spices include cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg and vanilla extract, although I still like the addition of pepper. [I think cayenne pepper also improves chocolate Atole or Champurrado.]
If any of these drinks are not quite to your liking, a dash of the everyday tequila may help.
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Butterflies and Day of the Dead
If you read all the way to this point to see if butterflies are on the menu for Day of the Dead, I hope you will be delighted to know they are not. Which reminds me, the QANON conspiracy idea (yes, it is out there) that eating children is on the Democratic menu is also not true. Shockingly, there IS a connection here.
During November, monarch butterflies complete their long trek to Mexico. Many believe they carry the souls of their ancestors. Art work or other depictions of butterflies during this Day of the Dead (and throughout the later part of the year) is another way to pay tribute to dead loved ones.
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FINAL THOUGHT
For everyday life, if Aging with Pizzazz is your goal, this collection of food options is not what you would normally choose. But holidays are a wonderful exception to the daily rules. They can also be a time to create, or recreate, traditions – no matter our age.
I am going to share another portion from my original post…
“We agree on at least one fun thing to do that day (together or separate)
to celebrate both our remembered friends or family – and our own lives.
The concept of something ‘fun’ is to convey enjoyment
to those no longer able to take part in such activities.”
Perhaps this year we will also try a new culinary dish; maybe you will too.
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Note: In 2008 the tradition of Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) was included as an “Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity” by the United Nations Education, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO).
Credits: Title Picture: Sugar skulls: Image by TrinyM from Pixabay
La Calvera Catrina Image by Aldo Rafael Gutiérrez from Pixabay
Pan de Muertos Image by Crisoforo Gaspar Hernandez from Pixabay
Pan de Muertos with drink Image by alejandroavilacortez from Pixabay
Butterfly image: Image by David Mark from Pixabay
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